Earth.Org findings suggest that 10% of global carbon emissions are attributable to the fast fashion industry alone. In recent years, the term ‘sustainability’ has pivoted from a marketing buzzword to a business imperative, as environmental concerns mount and environmentally conscious consumers question gaps in transparency. With the announcement of sustainability requirements at London Fashion Week, it is clear that this shift represents the reimagining of the industry standards.
The Evolution of Sustainability Requirements in Fashion
The conversation around sustainable fashion has accelerated in recent years. From the initial launch of eco-friendly collections to the establishment of comprehensive business standards, evidence suggests that at least some progress is being made. A notable moment came during 2020, when Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) introduced sustainability requirements: a set of criteria that brands had to fulfil in order to participate in the event. This was the first major fashion week to implement such measures, and it has since set standards for other companies to adhere to.
More recently, the British Fashion Council (BFC) collaborated with CPHFW to develop its own Sustainability Requirements Framework for London Fashion Week. While the framework is yet to be revealed, the full implementation is expected to come into effect by January 2026. The BFC states that the partnership aims to establish industry alignment and encourage positive change. The news represents a significant shift in elevating environmental standards from optional to mandatory.
LFW Sustainability Requirements
The BFC’s decision to implement sustainability requirements for London Fashion Week marks another milestone in fashion’s environmental progress, and we can anticipate that these are going to share similarities to the those set for the CPHFW. They will establish minimum environmental and social standards for brands intending to participate, and will most likely require brands to demonstrate:
- Reduced carbon footprints throughout their supply chains
- Responsible material sourcing (with increased use of sustainable fibres)
- Implementation of zero-waste design practices
- Elimination of single-use plastics from packaging and events
- Transparent reporting on environmental impacts
Vogue Business reports that the BFC will pilot minimum requirements with brands that are part of its Newgen initiative (a programme for emerging fashion design talent) throughout 2025. The full implementation of standards for Newgen brands is anticipated to be applied from January 2026, before the BFC sets out a plan to establish the requirements across the London Fashion Week schedule.
Current State of Environmental Standards
Today’s landscape indicates varying levels of sustainability commitments and initiatives. Brands like Shein face major and repeated criticisms for their environmental and social practices, while brands such as Stella McCartney have built their identity around promoting environmental responsibility, fashion houses like Gucci have announced ambitious carbon neutrality goals, and other companies have set targets to reduce emissions, preserve biodiversity, and tackle waste generation.
Companies are also seeking to demonstrate their commitments by pursuing verification to external standards, a number of which are available. The Cradle-to-Cradle certification, for example, requires circular design principles to be incorporated throughout product development, and the Global Organic Textile Standard describes itself as the “worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibres”, and includes ecological and social criteria that have to be met to achieve certification.
Furthermore, there has also been a focus on product innovation, with developments in material technology being made, and alternatives to conventional cotton, polyester, and leather being increasingly utilised by garment designers.
Beyond Compliance and Expectations: Industry Leadership
Given the growing pressure to adopt less environmentally and socially detrimental practices, and to develop more sustainable products, today’s industry leaders have to go beyond the adoption of basic standards and the pursuit of increasingly industry-standard certifications. Instead, leaders in the field are having to pioneer innovative approaches to sustainable fashion.
For example, circular business models such as Patagonia’s ‘Worn Wear’ programme, and online rental platforms such as Rent the Runway, represent truly alternatives approaches to those taken by the regular fashion houses, and are in stark contrast the business models developed by the fast-fashion giants.
Innovative approaches are also being taken when it comes to materials. Through Bolt Threads’ partnership with Ecovatice, the development of Mylo material made from mushroom leather is a case in point. This material provides opportunities for brands to reduce the impacts associated with their leather products, while avoiding the use of the often-criticised plastic-based substitutes.
Similarly, technology developed by Evrnu allows for the conversion of manufacturing and post-consumer waste textiles into fibres which, it claims, perform as well as (if not better) than virgin fibres. These alternatives suggest that the use of virgin materials and polyester does not have to continue at the rates it has previously, and that solutions are being developed by trailblazers within the industry.
What’s next?
As London Fashion Week joins Copenhagen in implementing sustainability requirements, we are witnessing a crucial shift from voluntary commitments to mandatory standards. The future belongs to brands that meet these standards, as well as those which view demand for sustainable fashion as a catalyst for innovation, rather than a restraint.